No Water From the Well in Derry, New Hampshire
The one genuine emergency on this site. Before anybody drives out, three checks occasionally fix it for nothing — and if they do not, they narrow the diagnosis considerably.
Call (603) 704-2676Tell Us About the Well
Three Things Worth Checking Yourself
A house on a private well that suddenly has no water is not a plumbing inconvenience, it is a household that cannot flush, wash or drink. It is also, more often than people expect, an electrical fault rather than a mechanical one — which is why the first checks cost nothing and occasionally end the problem entirely.
None of what follows involves opening a well or touching a pump. If the checks do not resolve it, that is useful information rather than a wasted ten minutes: it means the fault is below ground or inside the pump circuit, and it tells whoever comes out where to start.
In This Order, Before You Call
- The breaker — well pumps sit on their own double-pole breaker, and a tripped one looks exactly like a dead pump from inside the house. Look for a breaker sitting between on and off. Reset it once. If it trips again immediately, stop and call, because that is the pump circuit telling you something.
- The pressure switch — the small grey box on the pipe near the pressure tank. If the gauge beside it reads zero and the pump is not running, the switch may have failed or its contacts may have burned. This is a cheap part and a common failure.
- The pressure gauge itself — note what it reads before anybody arrives. Zero, stuck at a low number, or normal-but-no-water are three different faults, and the reading is the single most useful thing you can report on the phone.
- What you must not do — pull the well cap, dismantle the pressure tank, or start the pump repeatedly to see if it catches. Short-cycling a struggling pump is how a repair becomes a replacement.
What It Usually Turns Out To Be
- A tripped breaker or failed pressure switch — the cheapest outcomes, and the reason the checks above are worth ten minutes.
- A waterlogged pressure tank — the bladder has failed, the pump short-cycles, and pressure collapses. Roughly $300 to $700 published for 2026 to replace the tank.
- A failed submersible pump — the expensive one. Published 2026 figures put replacement at roughly $900 to $2,500 on average, with deeper wells materially higher.
- A dropped pipe or wiring fault down the well — less common, and diagnosed by pulling the pump rather than guessing.
- A genuinely low or dry well — seasonal or drought-related, and a different conversation from a mechanical failure, because no new pump fixes an empty well.
What the Repair Costs
- Well pump replacement — roughly $900 to $2,500 on published 2026 averages, with most reported spending falling between about $977 and $2,822.
- Deeper wells cost more, predictably — submersibles in wells 100 to 200 feet run roughly $1,500 to $3,000, and in wells 300 to 400 feet roughly $2,800 to $5,500 (2026 published guidance; read August 2026).
- Repair rather than replacement — one Hillsborough County dataset reported 2026 well pump repair spending between about $212 and $1,727, which is the spread between a pressure switch and something structural.
- Pressure tank — roughly $300 to $700, or about $200 to $500 additional when bundled with a pump replacement (2026 published data; read August 2026).
No Water in Derry Right Now?
Call (603) 704-2676 and say what the pressure gauge reads. That one number does more to speed up the diagnosis than anything else you can tell them.
Call (603) 704-2676No-Water Questions
The breaker keeps tripping when I reset it. Should I keep trying?
No — stop after the first reset. A breaker that trips immediately on the pump circuit is reporting a fault, most often a failing pump motor drawing more current than it should, a wiring fault in the well, or a failed control component. Repeatedly resetting it forces a struggling motor to keep starting under fault conditions, which is a reliable way to turn a pump that could have been pulled and assessed into one that has burned out entirely. Report the tripping behaviour on the phone; it genuinely narrows the diagnosis.
Could this just be the well running dry?
It can be, particularly after a dry stretch, and it presents differently from a mechanical failure — water that returns after several hours of no use, or that runs briefly and then stops, points toward yield rather than equipment. It matters because the fixes are entirely different: a new pump does nothing for a well that has run short of water, and lowering a pump or looking at yield is a separate conversation. Mention the pattern, not just the symptom, when you call — how long it lasts and whether it recovers is the distinguishing detail.
Describe What's Happening
No water this morning, a pump short-cycling, a pressure tank past its life, or a test result you do not know how to read — put it here and one licensed local contractor calls back.
What Usually Turns Up Alongside It
Well work rarely stays in one lane. The pump raises the tank, the tank raises the pressure switch, and a transfer test raises everything that is dissolved in the water.